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Next morning we said goodbye to the Eco Arenal. In fact the most facilities we visited were eco tourism labeled. Usually that means that you got a little piece of biodegradable soap and that you were supposed not to flush toilet paper. But here were energy consuming airconditioners, quite comfortable by the way.

We have been 4 days near the volcano and seen only clouds around the top. Without any doubt it was a very active volcano (that’s why people visit this area), but all activity –if any- was completely hidden in clouds. No surprise in a raincloud forest. Or maybe it is just a PR trick to lure tourists?

The trip of today was to the Monteverde area, only 30 km in direct line from Fortuna, but you have to travel 6 hours in a huge detour around the Lake of Arenal. That is nice as the route is pretty, not the road. Again covered with potholes and the last part is just a neglected dirt road, in a terrible state.

We first travelled in a large circle the road around the Arenal volcano and were exited that the clouds around top were thinner, and grey lavafields were now visible. We continued through dense jungle and lost through the high trees any sight on the volcano. We saw again a coati on the road, that quickly fled in the forest. We approached the dam of the Arenal Lake. Then the magic happened. We were at the end of the dam from where we had for the first time a complete view of the magnificent Volcano. Clear of clouds and a perfect symmetrical shape.

Then suddenly out of the top burst a white dense cloud, shortly after that followed by a deep and heavy rumble, like exploding bombs. A dense cloud formed and the ashes were blown away by the strong upper winds. Incredible that it just happened when we were at the perfect place and the perfect weather. A most impressive experience, especially when youd hear the thunder in full stereo.

We continued our journey around the lake. One of the most pretty sceneries one can imagine. Everywhere flowers and the dense rainforest had changed for a drier climate forest.

Many foreigners had settled here, so you could find a German bakery and a Swiss chalet. Despite the fairytale landscape, only few tourists can be seen, so it must be hard to scrape a living out of your dream.Here is the Arenal volcano again vaguely visible. We drove further along the lake where we couild see the Pacific Ocean and after some time we reached the point where we should leave the road for Santa Elena. It looked like there was a dirtroad, and indeed there was a rusty pole where once probably the sign Santa Elena was attached.

The road was unbelievable: a total neglected stone and dirt road with big stones and even bigger holes. The speed at many parts of the road was limited to pedestrian speed. This is the realm for 4X4 cars, not only for the traction, but even more for the ground clearance you need. It was difficult to imagine that this road would lead to a prime tourist area. But it was indeed. The little town of Santa Elena / Monteverde is a bustling tourist area with countless restaurants and hotels. The main activities are adventures in the cloudforest.

After a stunning sunset and a dinner in town we made ourselves comfortable in the Los Cypresses hotel. Next day we decided to go to one of the adventure trails. Birgitt and Mariska wished to walk on bridges between the jungle canopy and I decided again to make a spectacular zipline canopy tour. Very impressive, some parts were very fast and high over the jungle on a steel rope, from platform to platform. The last one was high over terrain and more than 1000m long.

As extra treat there was a Tarzan swing as well. You jump down from a 10m high tower and make an incredible fast swing on a rope attached to giant tree. You yell it out from pleasure! (if you click this a 10 Mb movie will load, may take some time)

Most people did not like it and a few who ventured to the top, refused to jump. Anyone with plans to Monteverde: do not miss this!

On the way back I took some pictures from a bridge, that gives a good impression of the complex structured cloud forest.

In the mean time Birgitt and Mariska had a wonderful time exploring the jungle, partly high over the forest canopy over a system of bridges. Mariska used a bench as "skateboard".. Further strange trees and trees consumed by mushrooms were discovered. At last we met again after our adventures.

We saw a camouflaged butterfly with a pattern that resembles a dog head. It is so rare that we could not find it in a book, so we have to guess its name.

In general Monteverde is a top tourist attraction with the intention to squeeze as much money as possible from tourist: canopy tours, cable cars, night tours and whatever, all with a heavy price tag in dollars. OK, you get value for your money, but those who came here for the pristine cloudforest and trying to discover the mysteries of the hostile jungle, like Livingstone did, most likely will end up at wheelchair-proof paths where the trees have labels and with a guide who knows exactly where all the animals are hiding. That after paying a fortune for a ticket. Without any doubt there must be pure unspoiled cloudforest, but it will take some time to get there. We did not find it. Nature is not only beautiful, it's business as well.

In the afternoon we made a trip to the end of the area in Monteverde. This day had favorable weather, better than you may expect in a cloudforest. Until Mariska did not meet children of tourists to play with. It looks that there are no parents who take their children to a Costa Rican holiday. They may not realize how children like it to see all this magic tropical nature. Now Mariska had her lucky day. She met a girl in the restaurant and had a great time playing with balloons. It was a Costa Rican girl but it looked like they communicated very well. After this it was time to return to the hotel and pack for the next destination.

After nest destination Manual Antonio, we go further south for a plantation and then back to San Jose, for the last night

Next morning was raining and that was the right atmosphere for the cloudforest. We left the sealed roads of Monteverde and after a short while we entered the other terrible bump-and-hole route, again as bad as the road leading to Monteverde. It offered nice views over the hills, now crested with clouds. Clearly was visible where the rainforest was destroyed. Only pale grass was left. It looked like the cloud forest, an incredibly complex equilibrium of flora and fauna, was destroyed beyond natural recovery. It is simply destroyed forever. And for what? Well, we only notice vast area’s that not even can sustain sheep of cattle. So this human action counts only losers.

It took a slow and bumpy ride for an hour and then we came on sealed roads again in a remarkably good shape. We slowly descended and arrived at the coast. We followed the coastal plains, close to the lush green mountains. along extensive plantations of oil palms. We did not lose time, as we wished to visit the National park in Manuel Antonio.

After checking in we went directly to the national Park, convenient located 50m from the hotel, only to discover that the park was closed today. Alternate plan was to check out the village and the beach.

On the way to the beach in a creek we saw an unusual heron. The beach indeed is wonderful. Some rocky islands in front of the coast give a nice scenery. On the sand is to see how strange creatures make figures in the wed sand. A little crab hidden in a shell tried to escape in the direction of the sea.

Next day, our last day in Manuel Antonio, a dive expedition is planned, and a visit to the National Park.

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